The archetypal consummation: a system of garment drafting, founded upon practical experience

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ARCHETYPAL

CONSUMMATION

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THE

ARCHETYPAL CONSUMMATION:

A SYSTEM OF

GARMENT DRAFTING,

Founded upon Practical Experience.

BY

YOUNG & RATHVON,

COIiUMBIA, PA.

184S.

II'

EiitereJ according to Act of Congress, in the year 18'I5, by
YOUNG & RATIIVON,

ill llie Office of the Clerk of the District Court of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

Prinieil by J. J. Gosslfr, >^- Co.

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PREFACE,

it is with the utmost diffidence in this age of improvement,
wlien almost every day gives rise to something nevv^ in the
arts and sciences, that the authors of this work take the liber-
ty of presenting to tlieir brethren of the trade in general, the
results of tlieir investigations, researches, and practical labors
in the science of garment cutting. Nevertheless, after having
given the subject that due amount of reflection which it re-
quires, and resting under a (irm conviction that much yet re-
mains undeveloped connected with our beautiful science, they
now appear before the public with the assurance of giving full
satisfaction whei'e its principles are strictly adhered to, a pro-
attention given, and a fair trial made.

In presenting this work the authors do not aspire to an en-
tire originality in all its details : they merely present it as a
series of practical results, at which they have arrived after a
combined experience of twenty years in the art and science
of garment cutting. One important feature, however, they
do claim as entirely original, inasmuch as it differs from any
thing extant upon the subject, and is the foundation on which
the superstructure is mainly built, namely : the Shoulder
Pitch. It is this that always has been and is the great desid-
eratum with the trade. It has been found in many cases, that
after the shoulder measures and other prooi measures have
been taken with all imaginable care and correctness, there
has been an utter failure in producing the desired effect in the
application thereof, inasmuch as no permanent 'starting point'
could be established without first having the shoulder pitched
to its proper place to suit thp particular form of the customer,-

4V

and it is perfectly obvious to any experienced cutter that the
garment may be cut in perfect accordance with the most cor-
rect measurement, and yet the result may involve him in dis-
appointment, and frustrate all his anticipations.

Another new feature is the manner in which the skirt spring
is obtained, that it may adapt itself to any form of forepart, —
which will be detailed in its proper place in the body of the
work.

The authors are aware that the objection of complication
will be brought to bear against their system, and that some-
thing more simple and with fewer lines and measures would
be more acceptable to the trade, but a long experience in the
science of cutting has convinced them that it is not the siii^
pie thing that many flatter themselves it is, and that as thera
are almost as great a variety of forms as there are of counte-
nances, therefore practical results are more to be depended
upon than any general system— nevertheless it may claim
simplicity as its chief merit.

With these remarks, and a desire to have its merits fairly
tested, and in the hope that an impartial and candid fraternity
will give it that consideration which they flatter themselves
it so richly deserves, the "Archetypal Consummation" is
here submitted to the trade by

THE AUTHORS.

add an inch or more to each of your shoulder measures, un-
less you should measure your customer over an over coat or
hangup. For coats that hutton up close to the neck, after
having taken the length of the lappcl, you will place your
right hand firmly against the point of its required length, and
with the left hand pass the measure up along the front of
breast to the required height of the neck, and deduct the over-
plus from the full length of the lappell, and note the hallance
in your book. Proceed in the same manner for vests and
roundahouts, that are required to be buttoned up close to the
neck, and also take a measure around the neck for its width.
All other measures, such as sleeve, breast, waist, &c., in the
usual mode.

For vests, take the breast and waist, where there is no coat-
measure taken, and refer to the graduated scale for the meas-
ure by which to cut it.

For pants the most important is the hip measure, as they
are cut by a division of that measure — other measures in the
usual manner.

For linen, bombazine or any other material that requires a
large seam, do not neglect to make a due allowance, as a gar-
ment cut too tight is always more liable to remain "on your
hands" than one that is a trifle too large.

For drafting coats, in every instance you will draft by a di-
vision of the first and second shoulder measure.

Both sides of the customer should be measured, and if there
is any difference that difference should be divided.

^7-s- -f~~

PLATE II-DRAFT I. OF THE BACK.

Lay your cloth with the crease towards yoii and the
grain to run from right to left — then draw the line A close
on the edge, and square the line B at bottom. With your
measure obtain the distance to E and thence to D— lay the
angle of your square at the junction of D and A and the
long arm two inches or more in on E, [as fancy or fashion
may direct,] and draw the line C and at the same time
square the line D with it. From D to the mark at the
bottom of scye [or C on the figure] thence to the hollow of
waist [or D on the figure] you will obtain by the meas-
ures you have taken to these points. From bottom of scye
to F, is an I, from F to G ihere is no permanent distance,
but is subject at all times to taste or fashion. Square F,
and G, and go out on F a J, and from this point square the
line H with F. I'he width of the back will be governed
by the measure which has been previously taken for that
part of the garment. On the line D go out an I, and form
the line I by a sweep or "crooked stick." The line E should
be parallel with F and the width between the hip buttons
governed by the style of the garment. The line J is gov-
erned by the prevailing fashion at the time the garment is
cut, and so also is K. After the back is cut out, make a
notch at the hollow of waist, bottom of scye, and where the
line H crosses the line I: if the distance from the line F
to D is more than a I make a notch where the 3 is, but if
less, pay no attention to it.

PLATE IL-DRAFTII. OF THE FOREPART.

Draw the line A on the edge of cloth opposite to where
you have taken ihe back out— square B with the bottom-
then lay the lower point of the back side-seam at the an-

gle of A and B and the upper point on the Une A, with
the back-seam towards you and make a mark, and this will
give you the length of side-seam for the forepart. Then
lay line F of the back, opposite the mark for top of side-
seam, with the back-seam along the line A, and make a
mark where you have notched the back at bottom of scye,
and from these two marks square the lines C and D : —
Go out on the line C a 3, and square E from D— from D on
the line E to the small star is the distance having that
character on the square. Square the line F from E line
at the star — the F is however not permanently fixed at that
point, but is merely given here as a guide for the new be-
ginner. Go out on the line C from E a I and square the
line G from C— go down on G a 2 and make a mark— go in
from the line G on C an I and make a mark— draw the line
H from the marks on G and C up through K and F. This
line gives the shoulder its proper pitch the variations of
which will be noticed at the end of this article. Go in on
the line D from the base of E an J, and mark it. From F
go down on the line II an I, and make a mark, lay the
angle point of your square on the line F and the outer
edge of the long arm to strike the marks on H and D,
and along the short arm draw the line X — the line X is
also governed more or less by the shoulder measures and
is merely given as a guide. Go out from front of scye on
line C a i for front of the breast, and as much more or less
as your breast measure, fashion, or the peculiar style of
the coat shall dictate. Go up on E from Dai, and lay
the angle of your square at the mark with the short arm
towards you and the outer edge of the long arm at the I
mark on D, and draw the line K : this line has also no
permanent position- but is governed more or less by the

FLATii^ III.

prevailing customs of the day. After all these lines have
been obtained lay your back with the upper point of the
side-seam on the line C, the bottom of the back-seam at
the angle of A and B, and the notch (where H crosses I
on the back,) on the line A: lay the other back along the
line X with the one point of the top on F and the other
on H : form the front of scye as per draft : then apply the
proof measures as shown on Plate III, draft I, as follows :
From A around in front of scye to A; if it should be too
long or too short, move the upper back to suit, always
keeping on the line H : next from A to C or blade meas-
ure, which, should it require it, you will alter to suit the
measure at blade point, and mark your side-seam so far
as the first position will permit : then apply the 2nd and
3rd shoulder measures from B to B, and from C to C, and
should it require it alter the shoulder point to suit the
measures. Go in a J of the waist measure from the line
C and make a mark (Plate II, Draft II,) which will serve
as a guide how far to draw the back in, in bringing it to
the second position: before you move your back from the
first position, you will form your scye ; apply the scye mea-
sure and if necessary take some off of the shoulder point:
the lower point from the lines D to C should be an I oi
the neat scye measure. Apply your ballance measure and
alter to suit if necessary : apply your hip, lappell, breast
and waist measures. The best guide for a well ballanced
lappell, is to sweep its length from the socket point A by
the waist point of the forepart.

VARIATIONS OF FOREPART.

If the 1st shoulder measure should be larger or smal-
ler than the 2nd, then go in the I on the line C from G
with the 1st shoulder measure instead of the 2nd. The

10

reason will be obvious at a glance, where the 1st shoulder
measure is the largest, it shows the person to be straight
with the head more thrown back, and consequently re-
quires the shoulder to be pitched further back. On the
contrary, if the 1st shoulder measure is the smallest, it
shows the person to be somewhat stooped and the head
more forward, and therefore requires the shoulder to be
pitched forward; if the 3rd shoulder measure be very large
in proportion to the others, it shows the person to be high
shouldered, and therefore requires the shoulder point to
be raised to suit the form ; if on the contrary it be propor-
tionally small, it indicates low shoulders, and consequently
the shoulder point to be sunk.

If as has been remarked in the explanations of the back,
the distance from the line E to D be more than a 3 you
will notch it on both sides, and place the notches instead
of the top of the back, on the lines F and H : this will
bring the gorge as much in front of the line H as the dis-
tance from E to D is more than a J: this rarely occurs,
however, only where the person is very round shouldered
or very long necked, when in either case it is highly
necessary. For coats that button up apply the neck meas-
ure, and the measure in front of breast for heighth of
neck as explained in the article on the mode of measure-
ment.

All coats that are not wadded in the breast should be
pitched a little further back in the shoulder,

PLATE II— DRAFT III. OF THE SKIRT.

Before proceeding to draft you will first obtain the prop?
er amount of spring that will be required for the particu-
lar form of the forepart — as the forepart has more influ-
ence over the spring of a skirt, than any customer can

11

have, whatever his shape may be. For example : if the front
of the forepart be thrown down very low (as the present fash-
ion favours) it requires less spring than if cut short in front
and vice versa : therefore if your customer is of a straight
form with a prominent chest you will naturally give him a
long lappell : if on the other hand, his form is stooped and
chest contracted a contrary course will be pursued and you
will cut the lappell proportionably short — in cither of which
cases it is evident there could be no general spring given to
suit all forms, and that some practical and self variable mode
should be established that would adapt itself to every variety
of forepart. First lay your back in a closing position with the
forepart, with the back-seam towards you — that is the upper
and lower points of side-seam of back and forepart together — ^
then draw a line from the lappell point to the waist point and
across the back ; then lay the long arm of the square (lower
side up) with the outer edge along t^e back-seam, with the
character V, where the line you have drawn crosses the back-
seam, and note the figure or fraction on the short arm of the
square that forms a junction with line from lappell to waist
point, and this will give you a proper key to the spring re-
quired, and you will then be ready to draft your skirt with
some degree of certainty. Proceed as follows; draw the line A
on the edge of cloth, and after having obtained the length re-
quired for the skirt make a mark, then lay character V (up-
per side) at the mark you have made, with the edge of the long
arm of the square on line A and strike the angle B on the
short arm of the square that corresponds in number, to the
one you have previously taken on the under side, whilst the
forepart and back were in a closing position : the line E should
be parallel or nearly so, with B; C is formed by a curved rule
or otherwise — the form of the skirt is governed by the pre-

12

Trailing customs of the day: the top of line C is about three in-
ches in from the line A, but when the lappell and waist points
are cut long as in the present fashion, the top of the skirt should
be formed as is represented on the drafts of skirts : the V's
may be taken out of the top of skirt, or not at the option of
the cutter, but if not taken out they require more fullness to
sewed in.

ANOTHER MODE OF DRAFTING A SKIRT

Lay ihe back and forepart in a closing position, as rep-
resented in the above cut No. 1 ; let the back-seam be line
A : draw the line B touching the waist and lappell points ;
go out on B a J and square the line C from B line ; go up
on C a J and draw the line D; then square the line E from
the line A and go out on it a 3, and whatever the difference

13

is, at that distance, between the lines D and E; note it down
and it will be the required spring of the skirt.

APPLICATION.

Draw line A as represented in the cut No. 2 ; square B
from A : go in on B a 3 and square C : go up on C the
difference you have obtained as directed in No. 1, and draw
the line D. In all other respects form the skirt as direct-
ed in another part of the work on skirts. The same prin-
ciple can be applied to the coatee skirt.

PLATE II-DRAFT IV- OF THE SLEEVE.

Draw the line A on the edge of the cloth, then apply your
measure from sleeve-hand to elbow, and from thence up on
the line A the full length of the sleeve, (back included) and
make a mark ; from mark go down a 3 to the small star, and
from thence a I to the base of the line Bj square B with A; then
lay your back on as represented on the plate and obtain the
starting point for the line D; go out on the line B a I and down
on A a J, draw the line C from the J on A to the I on B, and
go up on C a J to the small star™this will form a pivot to sweep
the line D from line A to line E, which is half the scye meas-
ure across on B; if you cannot reach the distance with the
sweep for the line D, then sweep as much of it as yoti can
reach and form the front by your eye, giving it a gentle curve
so as to intersect the curve of the under-sleeve ; the under-
sleeve should be cut as represented on the draft, taking care
that the line G should not come, or at least very little below
the line B; the upper sleeve should be drawn in on the under-
sleeve as much in the front arm-seam as the back arm-seam —
and in order not to require too much fullness, the upper
sleeve should be hooked in as represented ; the general ap-
pearance or shape will be governed by fancy or fashion.

14

REMARKS.

As it is almost impossible for an author to be as clearly un-
derstood, or to convey as correct an idea of what he intends,
in writing, as he can by oral teaching — therefore, the forego-
ing will necessarily be intersperced with some imperfections.
Nevertheless, by a proper attention on the part of the pupil —
a frequent recurrence to the drafts, and the exercise of a mod-
erate share of taste and judgment — a common intellect will
be enabled to obtain a sufficient knowledge ol the system, to
convince him of its intrinsic value, and of the correctness of
its general principles.

PLATE III— DRAFT II. OF THE COATEE, OR
BUSINESS SKIRT.

You will obtain the spring for this skirt the same[as descri-
bed for a dress coat, but the application is somewhat different.
First draw the line A on the edge of the cloth, and after hav-
ing obtained the length, square the line B from A for the top
of skirt : then measure across on 15 the distance j^ou require,
including fullness, and strike the angle C, in the same man-
ner that you do the angle B in draft 3, plate II, from the lines
E and F, and also the top, front, and plaite of skirt as represen-
ted in the draft, or according to the existing [style at cutting.

PLATE III— DRAFT III. FROCK OR OVER-
COAT SKIRT.

Draw line A on the edge of the cloth, obtain the length of
the skirt and square the line C : lay the angle point of the
square at the base of the line C, and strike the an-
gle B five degrees on the short arm of the square, more
or less, as the case may require ; if the customer is of an
erect form with prominent buttocks, he will require a higher

I

FLATI': IV

15

angle than one of a contrary form— measure across on the
line B the distance required including fullness and lap-
pells : the line D is an angle which is left to the discre-
tion of the cutter, and is governed more or less by style,
however, lest the young beginner should not have suffi-
cient faith in his ov^rn taste or judgment, the following may
be an assistance to him: After having obtained the requi-
red distance on line B make a mark, and place where
the 3's commence on the long arm of the square to said
mark, and strike the angle I on the short arm— this will
give you a very tasty frock-skirt spring, and one that may
be relied on; in the majority of cases — form the top, plaite,
and bottom of the skirt as represented on the draft.

PLATE IV— DRAFT L OF THE VEST
FOREPART.

Draw the line A on the edge of the cloth and square B
for the bottom ; go in on B a 2 and square the line C, and
an 8 and square the line D : then with the length you have
taken for the vest, after deducting a * for width of back
at the top, sweep the line E ; go out on E a 4— from where
the line E strikes the line A, go down a a and square the
line F ; from F go up a J and square the line G ; go in on
the line G from C a I and form the scye on line H ; from
where the line E touches A go up a J, and from thence
draw the line I diagonally through the square formed by
the crossings of C, D and F, G ; form the lines L, K, D
and the gorge as represented on the draft, or according to
the particular form of the customer; the lines M and N
are for a double breasted vest; the length up the front and
the size of the gorge, is obtained the same as described for
a button-up coat : the line J is to represent a vest with a
heavy roll for which you will go down on the line I from

16

line D a J ; the line P represents a vest without a roll.

VARIATIONS-

If the customer is stooped or high shouldered, then raise
the line E and pitch the shoulder more forward 'as repre-
sented on the draft ; and if he be large around the waist
in proportion to the breast, then the line L should not be
drawn in so much as represented, and also the line O
should be brought more forward at the bottom, to suit the
particular degree of corpulency.

PLATE IV— DRAFT II. OF THE VEST BACK.

The line A is the fold of the material out of which the
back is to be cut ; B is squared for the bottom : go out on
B a I and make a mark ; lay the forepart as represented on
the plate and apply the breast and waist measures neat,
allowing only as much as the seam and turn in require :
then take the length from the J on B to the top of the fore-
part upper point, and sweep the line C : go out on C a e: go
down on A a 6 and square the line D : go out on D a J,
and from thence to the I on C, draw a line for the shoul-
der seam : having marked the top and bottom of side-seam,
allow as much as you deem sufficient, and form the lines
G and F.

VARIATIONS.

The line E, as in the forepart, for stooped or prominent
shoulders will require to be raised as represented on draft.

Vests as well as all other garments treated of in this
work, are cut by the second shoulder measure. But where
the customer is measured for a vest alone, or should he
have no coat on at the time, a simple breast measure may
be taken, and the following table consulted, which will

17

give the corresponding shoulder measure to it, and by which
the garment must be drafted in all cases.

Breast Measures. Corresp'ding Shoulder Meas.

20 , , 15

21 15;'

22 161

23 171

24 18

25 185

26 19^

27 201

28 21

29 1\\

30 22^

31 23J

32 24

33 245

34 C5i

35 * 263

36 27

37 275

38 . 28J

39 291

40 30

41 305

42 3U

43 321

44 33

45 335

46 341

47 351

PLATE IV— DRAFT III. OF PANTALOONS.

A is the edge of the cloth : B is squared for the top :
go from line B down on A to within an inch or less of the
full length of the pants, and square the line C • go up the

18

length of crotch (as much less as you have deducted from
the full length) and square the line D : go out on D a J of
the hip measure, and also a I of the same measure which
you will find on the long arm of the square underwise :
square the line E from D : go in on an imaginary or dot-
ted line O the \ of the waist measure, and form the lines I
and H ; draw the line F about an inch and a half in from
the line A at the bottom ; go in on line according to your
measure (say about a 3 of the bottom measure) draw the
line G from the 3 on D to the 3 on C, and from the bottom
of forepart as per draft : lay your forepart on the cloth out
of which you intend to cut the hindpart ; draw the line N
about an inch or less below the line C of forepart : go out
on line N 3 of the bottom measure : draw the line M about
an inch outside of line G of the forepart at top and from
the bottom, as represented on draft ; and, also, the lines
J and K.

\ A R I A T I O N S .

The above is for pants with a slash. If, however, you
desire pants with a whole fall, or plaited pants, then let
the line O represent the top, and for the latter omit the
line I, and if necessary add some in width at the top yet :
for gaiter bottoms let the foreparts be something less than
a third wide at the bottom, and the hindparts something
more than 3 wide, and shape them accordingly : for straight
pants or those that are shaped to the leg, draw a line at
the knee and form them accordingly to measure.

Those of the craft who may prefer Scott's scales will
strike a \ for line E of hip measure, and 3 and one 24th
for distance across crotch ; and Ward's or Mahaii's scale,
will require those who may use them, to go sixteen por-
tions to line E of hip measure, and 62 portions more for
distance across crotch.

FLATi^]

19

PLATE V-DRAFT I. OF THE SACK, (BACK.)

Draw the line A on the crease of cloth ; obtain the
length of the garment, and sweep the line B by it, making
the pivot about 3 inches out on line D : obtain the length
of waist and angle the line C : go in on C about 2 inches
[[more or less according to style] and from thence draw the
line E, and square the line D : go down on E the depth of
scye measure and square the line F: go up from F a I and
square the line G : go out on F a 3 and square H : from F
go out on F an 8 : go out on D an 8 : go out on C from E
the 6 of the neat waist measure : and on B the I of the hip
measure and form the back scye, and lines I and J as rep-
resented on the draft, or agreeably to the ruling custom of
the day.

VARIATIONS.

If you require a loose sack without a seam in the back
then you will omit the line E, and square D, F and G from
A, and shrink the back in along the line A at the waist,
and stretch J a little opposite the shrinking.

- PLATE V— DRAFT 11. OF THE FOREPART.

Draw the line A a sufficient distance in from the edge of
cloth to give room for the bottom of the line J, should
the goods be wide enough ; then with your back find the
length of skirt and square B : then square C by the dis-
tance from C to F on your back: go out on C a 3 and
square D : go up on D an I and square E : go out on E
a I and square F : go down on F a 2 and in on E an | and
draw the line G ; go up on D from C a I and also to star
with the corresponding character on the square, and square
the line H ; go in on C from D an I and down on G from
H an 8 and obtain the lines K and X the same as describ-
ed in a dress coat ; apply the back on the lines A and C

20

and apply the proof measure, and on X the same as described
for dress coat, with the exception that you will follow the di-
rections given in the forepart of this work in regard to over-
coats and sacks ; and, also, the ballance measure should not be
drawn in neat but from 2 to 3, 4 and even 5 inches should be
added to that measure in some cases, according to the particu-
lar style in which the garment may be desired ; for a close
sack a fish should be taken out of each forepart as represent-
ed : go out on E from D a 2 and if the garment is single-breast-
ed add the necessary quantity outside of it : apply the neck
measure for length and heighth as described, and form line I
and P : if on the contrary you desire a double-breasted sack
then add something more in front of breast and form the line
O, or if you wish, cut the lappells off as represented ; form the
line J agreeably to measure, and spring out the skirt at the
bottom according to the desired style of the garment : form
the line M as represented on the draft.

OF THE SACK SLEEVE.

Observe the same direction in drafting the sleeve of sack as
for any other coat, excepting a due alloAvance for drawing it
on when intended to be worn over another coat.

PLATE V— DRAFT III- OF THE CLOAK,

OR MANTLE.
Cut the cloth into two equal pieces, and open it out the full
width with the grains running towards the left, and on the
edge towards you draw the line A ; go up from the bottom
on A the neat length of the cloak and mark ; from the mark
go up a J and square the line B across the cloth : go irom B
a \ and square the line C : go in on B a J and on C a ^ ; angle
D, at what over the size or style of the garment shall indi-
cate ; draft the line F two inches longer at the line 13 than at
Aj and four inches shorter at D than at A j this will give the

^1

cloak its proper length over the shoulder, (which takes up a-
bout two inches) and in front, which would otherwise droop
too much ; form the gorge or line E as represented on the
draft and take out the gores as marked, which will give the
mantle a better hitch on the shoulders, and cause it to remain
in its place, even when it is not clasped or tied.

Capes for cloaks, surtouts, over-coats, &c.,may be cut by the
same draft, with the following variations : go up from length
to line B an l; and from thence to C a J; go in on B a «, and on
C an e ; give the cape any fullness you desire and form the
gorge accordingly.

In drafting a cloak as in a sack you will draft by the second
shoulder measure takeh loose, or an inch added to the neat
measure ; take a gorge measure and apply it, which will give
you the precise amount to be taken out at the gores.

CONCLUSION.

The authors cannot dismiss the subject without making a
few general remarks in conclusion, on the indispensible neces-
sity of a proper exercise of taste and judgment in making as
well as in drafting and cutting garments. If a coat even should
be well and 'tastily' cut, itoften happens through the inexperi-
ence or want of a sufficient artistical knowledge on the part
of the maker, that the garment is totally spoiled ; and the ve-
ry effect for which the cutter so long and so laboriously toil-
ed, has been utterly destroyed, and himself subjected to the
most intense disappointment, and wounded sensibility. Ar
old gentleman of the trade in the city of Baltimore used to
remark :— "When I look at my coats after they are cut out,
they make me laugh, but when they are brought in made up,
they make me cry," and there is not the least doubt but that
he had just cause to weep over such a wanton spoliation of
broad cloth. Even a bad cut coat may be improved very

22

much in appearance by a 'tasty' maker, and it is no excuse for
him to say " the coat was cut a buzzard, therefore I made it
up a buzzard," because making a coat and cutting one, are
two different things, for there are certain effects that are pro-
duced in making alone, which no cutting can reach ; and,
therefore, it is of the first importance that the maker should
have a thorough knowledge ot his department of the business,
that he may be the better enabled to understand fully the in-
tentions of his " Crook," which in the end will certainly re-
dound to his own credit and will ultimately advance his own
best interests. This result can only be brought about by re
quiring apprentices to the business to serve a reasonable length
of time to it, which would also prevent in a great measure the
dissipated and licentious habits so prevalent among our trade.
As we remarked in our preface Tailoring is not the easy thing
that it is generally "cracked up to be" — (to use a vulgar
phrase ;) and, therefore, those who adopt it as their pro-
fession and avocation, should be actuated by the proper
spirit, and be ambitious to excel in it, as it is one that has
decided advantages over many others ; moreover, the bus-
uiess is becoming every day more complicated, and it would
seem necessarily so, as it is the only means by which the
craft can compete with the host of '* rag-shops" that are
springing up like mushrooms, and exercise a ruinous in-
fluence on the trade, throughout the length and breadth of
our land. No apprentice should be taken for a less peri-
od than five years, but in many instances a longer period
is absolutely necessary. This period is comparatively a
short one, in connection with a man's lifetime, or the in-
fluence it is calculated to have over him in future years.
When he first goes to the trade, he is as helpless as a
child just emerged into existence, and therefore it requires
months and sometimes years before he can offer the least

• 23

compensation to his mastei' for the pains and anxieties and
morlifications he has incurred on his account. And when
at length he does become free, he can "cast his bark upon
the Ocean" wuh some kind of confidence, and with the as-
surance that he will not "strike a bar and bilge" the very
first " port" he attempts to "enter." Many young men
come out of their apprenticeships with scarcely knowledge
sufficient to construct a wagon cover, and of course most
egregiously ignorant of the business, and yet their employers
are, in a manner, compelled to give them employment, be.
cause to pursue a different course would be to reflect upon
themselves and upon all the work they had previously made;
and, therefore, in a sort of charity to the feelings of anoth-
er, these things are continued at the daily sacrifice and
laceration of your own. On the other hand it often hap-
pens that an active, intelligent and persevering boy is put
under a stupid, dissipated and worthless master ; in such
a case we would say "break the bonds that bind two un-
willing hearts together," for it is better— nay the best thing
that can be done for both master and man.

These things adhered to many evils will be obviated, a
millenium in the science of Tailoring will have commen-
ced, and our trade assume that rank in society for which
it was by nature and "Nature's God" intended.

Hoping that the foregoing hints may be taken in that
spirit of kindness and good intention by which alone they
were dictated, and with a lively interest in the welfare of
the legitimate trade in general, we very respectfully sub-
scribe ourselves your fellow tradesmen and

Humble Servants,

THE AUTHORS.

24

TERMS

The price of the System, including books,
square, level, and full instructions in drafting,
will in all cases be - - - - -SIOOO

Persons at a distance without requiring per-
sonal instruction, will be furnished the full
system at - - - . - 8 00

For book and draft alone (without square,) 8 00

For square alone, - - - - - 3 00

For book wuhout drafts, . . . 5 00

Address B. YOUNG, Columbia, or

S. S. RATH VON, Marietta, Pa.

In all cases Post-Paid.

8 D 3 2.6

A

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